IMPORTANT SAFTEY INFORMATION:
Turn the key to the off position
Insert memory saver if required for your vehicle
Disconnect battery (negative terminal first)
Remove jewelery before working on the electrical system
This replacement should take a just over an hour at most. Especially if you have already removed the old one.
If you are still trying to determine whether or not your alternator is bad, check out the alternatorr diagnosing steps below. Another great way to be completely sure it’s the alternatorr is to remove it, and take it to your local parts store – they will be able to verify on their testing machine, and help you get a new replacement.
Use pulley from old alternator if this alternator does not have a pulley or pulley supplied is different from the one on alternator being replaced. NOTICE! When changing the pulley, keep the alternator in the horizontal position and do not apply any pressure to end of the shaft. Internal damage will occur if the shaft is pushed back and turned.
If there were spacers: when the fan and pulley were removed, make sure all spacers are replaced when installing the fan and pulley on this alternator. Hold the shaft by placing a hex wrench in the hexagonal hole in the shaft while removing or installing the pulley. Tighten the pulley nut to 95-108 Nm (70-80 Ibs ft).
Improper belt tension can cause premature alternator failure. Use a torque wrench to tighten mounting bolts to specified torque. Follow vehicle or engine manufacturer's specifications carefully for belt tension and mounting bolts torque. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN BELT!
Disconnect the negative battery cable – which is always the black cable.
"POS" Terminal - Output terminal connects to the Positive (+) Battery terminal.
"R" Terminal - Relay terminal carries half systems voltage and may be used for certain types of control relays, charge indicators, tachometers or similar devices. The current draw should not exceed four (4) amperes. Notice! Do not install the remote sense lead to this terminal.
"I" Terminal - Indicator lamp/Ignition terminal carries full system voltage. Current draw should not exceed one (1) ampere. It is recommended current is not drawn from this terminal.
Ground Screw - Ground lead ensures alternator is grounded and is strongly recommended for optimum performance.
"Remote Sense" Terminal - Monitors batteries system voltage at the Batteries or a common distribution point. The Sense terminal is the fourth terminal and is identified with a "remote sense" label on the back cover plate. Notice! Do not connect anything but the remote sense line to this terminal.
Before removing the alternator, do a quick visual inspection, look for any shims that might have been added to help align the alternator pulley to the belt. Note their position and save them, you will need to put them back in the same position once you install the new starter.
Loosen the bolts holding the alternator in place, and then support the alternator while you remove the bolts. You can then remove the alternaotr from the engine frame.
Make sure you use all shims in the same position they were previously in, tighten bolts to fasten the alternaotr to the engine frame - use manufacturer torque specifications for proper tightening.
Instal all leads back to the correct terminals and ensure all leads are hooked back up or contained where they can not ground.
This Alternator may have more terminals than the alternator it is replacing had or used. It will function properly by only hooking up the leads that were used on the alternator being replaced.
Reconnect battery cable, connecting positive connections first.
Files coming soon.
CHECK THE BATTERY
1. A battery and alternator work together. First check if the battery is functioning. There are three main indicators to know if the battery has gone bad. First, look for any leaks on or around the battery. If there is no visible battery acid, check to see if the battery should be cleaned. Finally, pull the battery out of the car to see if there is any noticeable bulging.
CHECK CABLES + CONNECTIONS
2. Having a constant connection with the terminals is important for the car to function properly. Check for any visible corrosion or rust on either the terminal or cable clamp. Look for problems with the cables if there are any cracks or fraying along the cable. Finally check for burnt or loose connections on or around the terminals.
CHECK BELT/TENSIONER
3. The alternator belt drives the alternator.Check the belt for cracks or glazing, which hinder them from performing their job to the fullest. If the belt is not cracked, feel to see if it is loose allowing it to have more movement than designed. Finally, look to see if the belt has been contaminated by a fluid. If so, fix the leak then replace the belt.
CHECK DASH LIGHT
4. Cars have a built in feature that will signal when the alternator or battery has gone bad. To find this, turn the key to the on position and look for a battery or "ALT" icon on the dash. If the key is on but no lights appear, check all connections and replace the battery.
CHECK THE CORE
5. The alternator core itself can sometimes indicate that it is causing the problem. Look to see if the core is burnt, cracked or covered in oil. If any of these are the case, replace the core immediately.
CONSULT YOUR OWNERS MANUAL
In the event that no solution was reached, seek wiring and installation instructions. These can be attained from a store, online or call our hotline for free information.
Your biggest challenge is confirming that when an alternator is on its way out, you may not be aware of it, because your battery is masking the symptoms. And finally when the battery is too flat to start the vehicle, the first go-to solution is to replace the battery, even though it may not be the culprit!.
Here are 5 ways you can tell if the alternator is really the problem, and hopefully you can resolve it before you get stuck!.
Flickering or dimmed lights
1. Ever noticed your cabin or headlights flickering when the engine is running? This is a sign of inconsistent charging flow - or voltage, showing that your alternator is struggling to keep up with the demand.
Electronic powered items slow down
2. Lights is the best giveaway, but if you notice other electronics in your vehicle begin to lag or stutter during a function, again, the alternator is not keeping up with the demand.
Battery not staying charged
3. Your battery loses power, and when you charge it with an external charger or jumpstart, and it goes flat quickly, then the battery is most likely good and the alternator is the culprit.
Engine runs rough
4.Engine does not run smoothly, this is particularly evident in late model cars that have precise electronic fuel management systems, loss of power to the ignition coils is going to effect the engine power, and also cause the ECU to re-calculate - this should trigger a battery warning light, or eventually the check engine light will show.
Awful sounds coming from the engine bay
5. If you are interested in having a look in the engine bay, when the engine is idling, you might hear grinding noises - which may be a rough or seizing bearing in the idler pulley. If it locks up and destroys the serpentine belt, you will also lose function of the water pump, power steering, air conditioning, as well, along with an expensive tow-in and repairs since on most vehicles one belt runs everything these days. That one should be easy to identify - the noise is horrible!.
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